Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
